Finally! We made it to Rio de Janeiro! This has been such a dream of mine to finally visit this magical city. It was one of those places I had a certain feeling that I would like it there. Don‘t ask me what it is but I had it with Cuba as well and I was right then. And with Rio I was right again. Even though the city turned out to be pretty different to what I had expected, it was an early highlight of our trip around the world.
When we entered Rio, our first destination was the domestic airport RJ Santos Dumont, where we dropped off our rental car.
On the highway into the city, we passed Favelas and a big police operation – it looked like someone had been shot. Police in civvies stood there and waved us through, machine guns at the ready. We felt a bit uneasy seeing this, given that we had been warned of the high criminality in Rio throughout our travel planning phase.
After dropping off the car we ordered an Uber. Several people suggested that Uber is a safer way of transport than regular taxis, because they are traceable. It became our preferred means of transportation. Only once we took a regular taxi, which admittedly worked very well too! Drivers were generally friendly and easy about the kids in the back.
We booked a room in a stylish new hotel at Ipanema, the Arpoador. Friends told us to stay in Santa Teresa but in the end we were glad about our decision to stay close to the beach. Ipanema, so we were told, is more residential and less dangerous in terms of robberies. It’s a fantastic beach with sand that feels like brown sugar. The waves were pretty high, though and current was strong, so we only went there once to swim with the girls. On Sundays, one side of the road along Ipanema beach was closed off and skateboarders, cyclists, joggers as well as families with children used it to stroll and roll along the coastline.
The girls eventually picked up some words in Portuguese and melted driver’s and waiter’s hearts when exclaiming “obrigada” (= thank you) every time they left the car or got their drinks. In general we found Brazilians very friendly and open. Of course, kids always help connect with strangers, but in general we had the idea that everyone was open and interested. Also, we had been told that Rio somehow had a bit of a dusty 70s feeling about it, which we cannot confirm at all. We experienced a very diverse city with beautiful beaches and immensely green mountains and fantastic nature.
Thankfully, during our stay in Rio we got to see the beauty of the city and could more or less tick off almost everything we had priviously selected as „must do’s“. We really loved Rio and hope to return one day.
stay
In the March issue of the Monocle Magazine, we saw a short interview with the owner of Hotel Arpoador and decided to book a room there. After some initial discussion about the room we booked (they claimed we were not allowed to stay there with two children, even though their own policies stated differently), we were happy to have found this stylish place right at Ipanema beach. Less a place for families and more one for gay couples, this small boutique hotel for sure excites anyone who likes design, comfort and really good service (wow!). Furthermore, it’s location right at the Ipanema beachfront is hardly beatable. The roof top terrace is equipped with a small pool, a sauna a small fitness room and a bar. On Wednesdays and Fridays they offer (for hotel guests complimentary) sunrise yoga lessons up there. In the lobby, fresh tea, lemon water and apples are offered and reception staff is very helpful when it comes to making restaurant reservations, booking tours and providing information on any question you might have. I believe there are also bicycles for rent (we did not make use of it). Since the hotel apparently is the only one of it’s kind in the city with direct beach access (without road in between) they offer seats, umbrellas and towels for guests to bring to the beach. Breakfast (included) as well as lunch is served at the restaurant, where staff is most attentive and super friendly. The quality of the food was extraordinary, fresh fruits and fruit juices that vary every day, eggs and granola, homemade bread and a plate with cheese and meat (and a kick-ass cappuccino). The restaurant is also popular with locals. They go there in the weekends for brunch with family and friends. Referring to my little project of finding a stylish, family friendly and child suitable hotel, I’d have to say that it is not all of the above. While obviously stylish and actually very child friendly, it attracts mostly people without children and some who do not really enjoy having them around, which made it for us rather stressfull to contain our brood in a way that nobody was bothered. Still, I would recommend this hotel to any of my friends.
eat & drink
- One evening we decided it was too late and we were too tired to drive somewhere for dinner, so we went to T.T. Burger. A very low-key Burger place in walking distance from our Hotel that could be described as McDonalds of Rio but then smaller and with a good veggie burger and a cool less fast-food-chain vibe. Easy with kids.
- A very good place to go to with children is Venga. They are totally prepared for families. High chairs, coloring utensils and frineldy staff. We went to the restaurant at Copacabana, because this one is bigger and therefore most suitable for families. The concierge at our hotel made reservations on the patio. All the dishes we tried at this tapas restaurant were delicious and cocktails are said to be fab and that’s also how they looked left and right (even though we didn’t have any). Absolutely worth going there!
- We found Cultivar when scanning the city for the best açaì in town and went there before exploring the streets of Santa Teresa. It’s very small and low-key, no English is spoken and the women who work there were beyond unfriendly (maybe only to tourists?) but the açaì was indeed fantastic and fresh. And so was the tapioca banana, tapioca queso and the little buns (god knows what they were) that we ate. Two thumbs up, for the food only, though!
- Sushi Leblon was recommended to us – and for good reason. However, it is one of these restaurant where you better leave your kids at home. We did not know and expect it to be so high class, so it turned out to be a bit of a challenging evening for every one involved. Our children L-O-V-E sushi and are generally uncomplicated with food, but this was too much, even for them. The (excellent) sushi there was so über-fancy that the kids got scared off and finally only ate the rice from under the fish. There’s a limit to every child’s gourmet threshold, I guess. For brave adult sushi lovers, it is a fiest for eyes and taste buds – a must-go! It’s in a higher price range but if you know sushi-prices in Switzerland (for unfancy sushi, that is) it’s nothing that should scare you off.
- Zaza Bistrô Tropical is a super cute oriental restaurant where we went on our last evening. We dined on the upper floor where shoes have to be taken off and guests are seated at low tables, sofas and poufs. Food was delicious, especially the cheese ice cream for dessert. But also the samosas, the beetroot salad and the moqueca were fantastic. We thought the low siting would be great for the girls but it turned out they saw it as an invitation to jump from one pouf to another, which made it more stressful than enjoyable for us. Nevertheless, the waiters and other guests were thankfully very patient!
Zaza Bistrô Tropical 
Sushi Leblon 
Venga! 
Cultivar 
Cultivar
what to do, where to go
- We took the (Swiss-made) train up Corcovado Mountain to see the famous Cristo Redentor statue. We were told that tickets are best purchased online in advance, so we had the hotel do it for us. We had to choose a time slot when we would check-in and take the train. Since we were a bit early, there was some time to enjoy the nearby playground outside the trainstation. The kids loved it – who cares for this Cristo statue anyways, right? The steep train ride through the thick forrest is an experience in itself especially when you are lucky enough to spot some of the little monkeys that live in those big trees. The statue can easily be reached (also with the stroller) and is absolutely impressive to see. It is only topped by the breathtaking view on the city, Ipanema beach, Copacabana beach and the Sugarloaf Mountain. Obviously it is very crowded up there since this is THE tourist hot spot, but it’s absolutely worth every effort – such a great experience!
- The next day we took the cable cart up to Pão de Açúcar (Sugarloaf Mountain). It was all very modern and well organized. Families with children in strollers got preferential treatment which meant we always had a place upfront at the window of the cable cart. Going up, the girls were a bit skeptical at first but then they really loved it. We all did. Seeing the city from the other side we spent quite some time watching planes take off at the close-by Aeroporto Dumont and we tried to catch Cristo on top of Corcovado for a good picture before he hid again behind the clouds. Going down we ate açaì at the intermediate station and bought some Havaianas. We also watched the famous James Bond scene from Moonraker where Bond and Jaws fight on the cable cart.
- On Saturday we took the Santa Teresa Bondinho (tram) from the center and took a ride over the viaduct up the steep hills of Santa Teresa. Liya was crying a little, the ride was super shaky and the old train made quite some noise, which obviously scared her. Still it was exciting to drive through the narrow steep streets, up the hill, passing street art and seeing the city and its favelas from yet another angel. We went all the way to the tram‘s final station where it turned around and brought us back to Largo do Guimarães. There we got off. After a snack at Cultivar (see above), we walked down through the Santa Teresa neighborhood (which was not so easy with two kids and a stroller given the very narrow, steep streets and the even narrower, bumpy sidewalks. The stroll was fantastic though. Once in a while Pão de Açúcar (Sugarloaf Mountain) came into view and the walls along side the streets were over and over covered in colorful graffitis and placards. The whole neighborhood seems to be a colorful canvas for artists to express themselves and spread their message.
- Eventually we found Parque das Ruinas, where we enjoyed some fun time on the playground and watched the monkeys climb along electricity cords. When we felt the first drops of rain on our foreheads (we had heard thunder for quite some time in the background already) we decided to go up into the ruins of the house, which once belonged to Laurinda Santos, and enjoy a marvelous view on the city and Sugarloaf Mountain. Once it dried up a little again, we sat down at the terrace cafe (do not order a cappuccino unlike you love it super sweet and with caramel-taste). Then we continued down the hill (in the rain, which had picked up short after we left the premises again).
- Last on our list was Escadaria Selarón. These stairs on the border of Lapa and Santa Teresa were renovated by Chilean artist Jorge Selarón who covered them in colorful tiles from all over the world. We reached the stairs from the top, which I wouldn’t recommend. We always had to go down a flight of stairs and then turn around to look back up in order to see the beauty of the colorful steps. Since it was Saturday, the stairs were well visited and it was difficult to take a nice picture without a strangers foot, arm or head on it. Still, we were in awe of the colorful masterpiece and it definitely is a fun sight to see, very fitting to Rio and it’s colorful and diverse vibe.
- Of course taking a dip in the wavy waters on one of Rio’s famous beaches was a must for us as well. Since we lived directly on Ipanema beach and were told that it is much safer and less touristy, this was our first choice. It turned out not to be the best place to swim with two toddlers in armbands (the waves were just too high and current rather strong), but we enjoyed some people watching and building sand… let’s call them hills. There were hawkers selling clothes, wearing most of their assortment themselves, which made them look like scarecrows – the girls loved it and exclaimed regularly “Look, what he is all wearing!” You can also get streetfood as well as some cocktails from food vendors.
- On Sunday we went to the Fereira Hippie (Hippie Market) not far from our hotel in Ipanema. At the market, as well as in the stores around it, clothes, jewelry, bags, sandals, bikinis and furniture was sold. It’s a charming market to look around and there was thankfully only a minimal amount of children magnets that lead to “mommy please, daddy can I get it!“ and so on… But it was unbelievably hot that day and the only thing we really wanted to buy, was ice cream. In the end we did purchase two very cute dresses for the girls (bring cash) and a gift for my mother – and eventually an ice cream for all of us!
- Finally, I wanted to get matching Havaianas for the whole family. I mean, where if not here. Prices are low and honestly, a pair of Havaianas is always useful when traveling. Unfortunatly it didn’t really turn out the way I planned. First of all they didn’t have the ones I had in mind in all our sizes. Second, Niels didn’t like the ones I proposed and bought a color I would never wear. Third, it took us most of our strengths to keep the girls from ripping all those with Frozen-characters on them off the shelves and even more effort to make clear that there will be no Anna, Elsa or Olaf Havaianas. In the end, they each got a different pair of Havaianas while I got myself a pair of Vert shoes in another store. For those who have never heard of Vert (neither had I before): they are Veja shoes produced in Brazil and called Vert, while design and its fair and eco-friendly production is exactly the same.
Honestly, we loved Rio more than expected. It has been an amazing time and we loved the colors, the fresh green nature and the friendly people we met. We are super thankful for this experience and although city trips are tiring for families, they are also an enrichment and we had a blast. Rio definitely made a big impression on all of us – Kenzie still ask about the man on the mountain, no matter where we are.
A note on safety: While planning this trip, we were told many times how dangerous Brazil and South America in general is for tourists and there was also the hazard of Zika, which we should not risk with the children. We heard and read it all. About how not to stop if someone is laying on the street, how not to slow down at the speed bumps and how to drive on (if still possible) after your car was hit by stones being thrown from bridges – but don‘t escape too fast otherwise they might shoot you.
The evening before we left, Niels said to me, gosh I will be glad once we made it safely to Los Angeles! Then we laughed really hard!
In the end, if you don’t know a country or a region, it is always easy to get scared before you get there and have a chance to feel and asses it yourself. And yes, also in Brazil itself we were warned, by Brazilians about how we might get robbed. Don’t wear jewelry, don’t stand on the sidewalk with your phone out (phone snatching seems to be very popular) and take UBERs instead of taxis. We followed these rules (which actually are no-brainers for any traveler wherever you go) and we did not once feel unsafe, scared or in a situation which made us feel uncomfortable.
